Saturday, December 21, 2019

Hellgate 100k 2019 - Watergate

December 14

It was the best of times; it was the worst of times.  No, scratch that, this was the worst of times, but more about that later.  On Thursday evening, my son-in-law, Ben, and I flew up to Roanoke in order to arrive ahead of the weather that would arrive on Friday morning.  Most years, I fly up from Huntsville on Friday morning.  This is the first year that I will spend the night before the race in a hotel room in Roanoke.  The flight goes very well, and then Ben and I consume Buffalo wings and such at BW3s.

On Friday morning, I sleep in as long as I can, all the way until 7am.  Then I spend the rest of the morning lying around the hotel room, reading some emails, and a magazine.  We then get lunch, buy the last few grocery items, and drive up to Camp Bethel arriving about 2pm.  I have more waiting around for the race that is the cornerstone of my ultra-racing year.  Ben and I spend the time catching up with old friends—Robert Wehner, Jeff Garstecki, and Aaron Schwartzbard.  Later I chat with Curtis Tait, who is running his first Hellgate.

Before the start
The weather forecast is not good.  It has been raining lightly most of the day so far, and it is supposed to continue into Saturday morning.  The low temperature is supposed to be around 38 degrees, and I decide to wear shorts with a long sleeve and a short sleeve shirt.  I will also wear thin gloves and a hat.  My strategy is not to dress too warmly so that I will be motivated to run hard and stay warm.  At the starting line, it is just misting, but the temperature is closer to 34 degrees.  We sing the National Anthem, Horton says a prayer, and we are off for the 17th time in this race!

Mile 3.5      43:23 (12:24 avg./mile) FSR 35

There is no wind, and I feel really good.  I am not cold at all, and I am not too warm either.  I find myself early on ahead of the other four of the fearsome five (Aaron, Jerry, Jeff, and Ryan).  At the one mile mark I need a photographer to document this phenomenon, but there is none in the woods on this dark, dreary night.  My lead of the other fearsome five quickly vanishes, but I do manage to stick with Jeff and Ryan until the first aid station.  I don’t feel like I am pushing the pace too much, and my time is within the range I want to hit.  Most years I am a minute or two slower, but this seems like a perfect start to this adventure.  I drink a cup of water at the aid station before heading up the hill.

Mile 7.5      55:53 (13:58 avg./mile) Petites Gap

Given my fast time on the opening section, I dial back a little.  I run and power hike my way up the hill, minding my own pace.  Many people feel like they need to make some time while they can, but I relax and enjoy the dreary night.  The rain is very light for this section, and even as the dirt road climbs higher and higher, there still is no wind.  When I get to the aid station, Ben is waiting for me with gear at the ready in the back of the mid-size SUV we rented.  I drink some chocolate milk before grabbing a full bagel to take with me.  Most years I change my shoes at this point, but with the rain there is no use.  My feet will be wet until Jennings Creek.  Both of these first two sections are faster than average for me.  I am off to a great start!

Mile 13.1    1:35:18 (17:01 avg./mile) Camping Gap

Leaving Petites Gap is where the race really starts going.  I take the first mile downhill section very well.  It is nicely technical with rocks and such.  When we make the first “tricky” turn on the course, I find myself behind a group of 5-6 runners.  Initially, it feels like a good pace, but after a little bit I decide to pass them.  I am then free to set my own pace again over the next few miles of single-track technical trail.  I make good time on the single-track and when the course dumps out onto the next dirt road section, I find myself with Steve.  He is moving well and wants to push the pace to catch back up with Jordan Cooter, who Horton refers to as Beaver.  Anyway, I let Steve press on as I continue to set my own pace.  Once again the climb to the higher elevations does not bring any wind.  The rain has remained light, and with no wind, I am reasonably comfortable.  I grab some grilled cheese sandwich quarters at this aid station along with a cup of broth.  My time is really good so far.  At 3:14, I am 15 minutes ahead of my pace from last year and have not been faster than this since my 2010 race.

Mile 21.9    2:25:53 (16:35 avg./mile) Headforemost Mountain

The grassy road begins this section.  I try to run most of it, resisting the temptation to walk the easy gradual uphill parts.  About halfway through the grassy road section, I link up with Hannah Quigg.  She is a Liberty University student that is taking Dr. Horton’s class this semester.  It is her first time running this race.  We chat a little bit, but mostly just keep pressing along.  Around 4am, the rain picks up to fairly steady and moderate.  Hopefully, the rain is nearing its end.  I am still feeling reasonably comfortable as I run the single-track trail.  Hannah follows me as we hit the single track portion leading to Overstreet Falls.  At one point she drops back a little, but by the time we get through the aid station at Overstreet Falls, she is back with me.  Most years the aid station is up at Floyd’s Field beside the parkway, but this year the parkway is completely closed due to ice, so Charlie has the aid station down here, and there are plenty of people manning the aid station with Charlie.  I grab a few pierogis before quickly exiting to continue up the hill.  At the top is where I mark my time as this is the location the aid station was for the first several years.  As I climb up the dirt road to the top of Headforemost Mountain, the wind decides to show its presence for the first time tonight.  And let me tell you, it is not a welcome guest.  I quickly get chilled by the wind and know that I will have to run hard after cresting the top to warm back up.  Initially, when the wind starts blowing it seems like the rain is going to stop, but this is a false hope as the rain resumes at a moderate pace soon thereafter.  My overall time at this point is 5:40, and is as fast as I have gone since 2010.  In fact, 5:40 at this point ties for my fastest time with a couple of other years.  Only 2010 at 5:32 is quicker.

Mile 27.6    1:57:36 (20:38 avg./mile) Jennings Creek

Sitting in the vehicle at Jennings Creek
Cresting Headforemost Mountain with the wind blowing and rain still coming down at a moderate pace, my hands are nearly numb.  The rest of me is sopping wet.  So, I run downhill to the next aid station, praying that I won’t go hypothermic along the way.  Hannah is with me again as we get into the technical trail about midway through this section.  Thoughts of dropping out of the race enter my head with full force.  I think that ending my streak with 16 straight finishes sounds okay.  The problem is that I still have a few miles to Jennings Creek before I can drop out.  Hannah and I had been running along in silence so far on this section.  To distract me a little from the pain of the cold, I ask her how she is doing.  She says she is doing okay given the conditions.  She is a little cold, but what is one to expect but to be a little cold at Hellgate?  Then she asks how I am doing, and I, with brutal honesty, say that I am freezing.  My plan of dressing a little bit on the light side seems like not the best idea right now.  Then I start telling her about the trail ahead from here to the aid station.  The conversation has the desired effect of distracting me somewhat from my misery.  By the time we get onto the grassy road that is the last mile into Jennings Creek, I no longer have any thoughts about dropping out.  Instead my thoughts are only on how I am going to get warmed up so that I can continue this race.  I get to the aid station, find Ben, and hop into the vehicle.  I spend the next 25 minutes accomplishing the following tasks all while I am shivering uncontrollably:  change my shirts, change my shoes and socks, and eat a bacon, egg, and cheese grilled sandwich that my extraordinary crew has perfectly prepared.  After I have accomplished those few tasks I am still uncontrollably shivering, and it is still raining.  So, I add another layer, putting on my yellow Houdini jacket along with dry gloves and a hat.  Then I exit the vehicle to resume my race.  Sitting in the dry vehicle didn’t warm me up any so now we will see if good, old human exercising can do the trick.  Arriving at Jennings Creek at 7:13 is the fastest I have been here since 2010.  My plan for dressing lightly worked well for my pace.  The problem is that I then had to spend 25 minutes changing into dry and warmer clothing.

Mile 34.5    1:51:15 (16:07 avg./mile) Little Cove Mountain

Leaving Jennings Creek
The course goes up for a few miles leaving the Jennings Creek aid station.  Hannah apparently didn’t take as long in the aid station as I did, and she will finish before me.  On my climb up the hill, I catch up with Darryl Smith, who has run this race 13 times or so.  Amazingly, Darryl and I have never run together in this race.  It doesn’t take more than 15 minutes of power hiking for me to warm up nicely.  It is still raining, but only lightly now, and the jacket is doing a good job of shedding the water.  The dry hat and gloves are also nice and will be as long as they stay mostly dry.  It must be very close to freezing, probably 34 degrees or so, as there is a little ice left on the dirt road from last night.  This section is uneventful other than the rain finally decides to stop before 9:30.  At this aid station, I eat a few PB&J sandwich quarters and drink a cup of Pepsi as that is all that they have.  Now that I have survived by not going hypothermic, I can focus on finishing under 17 hours, and the Coke should help me run a little quicker.

Mile 42.5    2:26:20 (18:18 avg./mile) Bearwallow Gap


Coming into Bearwallow aid station

Darryl and I run most of this section together.  It is good that I was behind him at one point because he dropped both of his mittens.  I picked them up and hand them back to him (once I caught back up).  We catch up to Chelsie Viar during this section.  This is interesting as I caught up to her about this same point last year.  Last night before the pre-race briefing, Chelsie told me she hated the fact that I knew exactly how long it was into the next aid station from various points on the course.  The one that rubbed her last year was from the turn up the hill to the devil trail.  For me, it is right around 45 minutes from the start of the devil trail until the aid station.  So, when I make the left turn to go up the hill to start the devil trail section, I make a point of yelling over my shoulder to Chelsie that we are 45 minutes from the aid station.  This year, it takes Darryl, Chelsie, and me 44 minutes and change to arrive at the aid station.  I was hoping that I could shed a layer or two at this point, but while it has stopped raining, it hasn’t warmed up very much.  It is still around 40 degrees or so.  I do leave the Houdini jacket with Ben at this point, along with my gloves.  I haven’t worn either of these since before the last aid station, so I should be okay.  Ben has cooked a perfect grilled ham and cheese sandwich.  I eat most of it and wash it down with some Conquest—yes Conquest!  This is my last serving of Conquest that I have been using sparingly since I bought a case or two about a decade ago before it was no longer made.  I leave the aid station before Darryl, but I hope he will catch up soon.  My elapsed time is 11:55 leaving this aid station.  I am going to have to run really good times on the next two sections to give myself a chance at finishing under 17 hours for the third year in a row.  While sub-17 is necessary for a Western States qualifier, only sub-18 is required to be an official finisher of this race.

Mile 49.5    1:56:40 (16:40 avg./mile) Bobblets Gap

I make good time heading out of Bearwallow Gap.  This is a beautiful section with great views.  The problem (as with most parts of this course) is that I cannot take my focus off of the single track trail in front of me.  A couple of people pass me on this section, and I manage to pass one person.  Otherwise, it is a peaceful time run alone.  Darryl doesn’t catch me until just before the aid station.  I sit down by the fire at the aid station.  It is chilly as the wind is whipping around at this point.  I eat several quesadilla wedges and drink a nice cup of Coke.  Three ladies come through while Darryl and I are eating at the aid station.  They look to be moving quite well.  My time is not as quick as I would have liked.  My chances at sub-17 are fading, but I have the next section to try and correct that.

Mile 56.1    2:06:11 (19:07 avg./mile) Day Creek

Last aid at Day Creek
On the 2.5 mile downhill from Bobblets Gap, Darryl and I pass the three ladies and another guy.  However, when we get on the single track trail and resume climbing the three ladies pass us by.  Darryl and I push hard and steady through this section.  I am leading most of the way, and I think we have a chance to get under two hours for this section.  We pass the point at which I met Sophie hiking back towards me in last year’ race when she told me it was 55 minutes to the aid station, and this year I am at 1:19 for this section.  The problem is that I can’t remember how long it took me last year.  Well, now I know it is about 45 minutes from that point to the aid station.  This is again about 10 minutes slower than I needed.  It is still a really nice time for this section; it is just not going to allow me a chance to finish under 17 hours.  In fact, this time is faster than I have done this section since 2008!  I eat a handful of potato chips and drink another Coke before heading up the last climb.  My stomach is not doing wonderful, so I decline the bagel that Ben offers me.

Mile 62.4    1:35:47 (15:12 avg./mile) FINISH

Leaving Day Creek, the three ladies, Darryl, and I are all together.  Darryl thinks we still have a shot at sub-17 and does a slow shuffle up the hill.  I am power hiking conservatively as I know I have a nice cushion of time.  If I really pushed it and felt good, I could probably finish in 17:15 or so.  I don’t feel either of those so I am just going to finish.  One of the three ladies is a pacer, and she says that she thinks we can make it to the parkway in about an hour.  I inform her that it should definitely be less than an hour.  As Darryl leaves us behind, the four of us stay around each other the rest of the climb.  I make it to the parkway first as they stop to address some issue one of them is having.  I reach the parkway in 47 minutes and begin to make my way down the other side.  The problem is that I have to exert energy to force myself to run, and I have to exert energy to watch my step on this dirt road that has loose rocks on it.  With those two exertions of energy, there is not enough energy (or motivation) for me to run hard.  I am in a survival shuffle that barely keeps me in front of the three ladies.  I finally make it to the gate that marks 1.5 miles to the finish.  I have covered the last two miles in a blazing 32 minutes, downhill with a tailwind.  Well, it is not quite a tailwind, but it is definitely downhill.  Right before I reach the gate, the three ladies catch and pass me.  When I get out of the smooth, gravel road, my legs come to life, and I manage to run the last 1.5 miles in 15 minutes.  I manage to finish ahead of the ladies, but fail to catch another guy that I see in front of me for the last mile.

Official Finishing Time          17:34:16
109th out of 142 starters (124 finishers under 18 hours)

Just after crossing the finish line
This year was truly a challenging Hellgate.  The fearsome five all agree that this was the toughest year in terms of the weather.  (I still contend the first year was the toughest mentally as we didn’t have any idea what the course really was.)  The 9+ hours of cold rain in the dark from the start of the race made it extremely difficult.  Amazingly, the drop rate is not very high.  When I was feeling pity on myself coming down from Headforemost Mountain, I had myself convinced that a majority of the field would drop at Jennings Creek.  As it turns out, most everyone did what I did.  They regrouped, changed into dry clothes, and pressed on to the finish.  At Hellgate, the cut-offs are fair and as long as one is in front of the cut-offs, there is still a good chance of finishing under the final cut-off.

While I wish I had been able to get another sub-17 finish, I am really happy that I was able to get my 17th straight finish.  The rest of the fearsome five all have finished well before me.  Unlike last year, I am again the fifth of the five, but still one of the five.  I expended quite the energy running this race while keeping my body warm enough.  Now, it is time to recover and figure out where I am going to achieve a Western States qualifying time next year.  My next race will be the Mountain Mist 50k on January 25 in Huntsville, Alabama.  Until then…

Never stop running,

Darin
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